• Aldabra Atoll at the Edge of the Empty Ocean

    Aldabra Atoll at the Edge of the Empty Ocean

    Where the Indian Ocean Turns to Stone and Light Far out in the western Indian Ocean, north of Madagascar and well beyond the usual mental map of inhabited coasts, Aldabra Atoll lies with the austere presence of a place that seems less discovered than merely encountered. It belongs to Seychelles, yet feels detached even from…

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  • Pukapuka Atoll at the Edge of the Empty Pacific

    Pukapuka Atoll at the Edge of the Empty Pacific

    Where the Pacific Turns Quiet Far out in the northern Cook Islands, almost lost in the blue breadth between Samoa and the Americas, Pukapuka Atoll lies low against the horizon, a ring of coral and green that has always seemed more improbable than grand. There are islands that announce themselves with cliffs, volcanoes, or lagoons…

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  • Christmas Island at the Edge of Silence

    Christmas Island at the Edge of Silence

    Where the Indian Ocean rises into jungle and cliff Long before its name suggested tinsel or feast days, Christmas Island was a dark mass in the eastern Indian Ocean, lifting abruptly from deep water far south of Java. It belongs politically to Australia, but geographically it feels set apart from almost everything: an isolated limestone…

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